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The Cool Mountain – Liangshan

We went to Luguhu, or Lugu Lake, that lies across the border of Sichuan and Yunnan provinces in China. Since I’d been to Luguhu once, back in 2002, from Lijiang, Yunnan, this time we mainly stayed on the Sichuan side. Flew from Hong Kong to Chengdu then never left the surface of the earth, went via Xi Chang to Luguhu and back, 9 days, such a trip! It was arduous, refreshing, appealing, daunting and unforgettable all at the same time.

I think I’d put the pictures up first. (All photos taken by me using an IXUS, all photos un-photoshopped. When unauthorised, please do not use, thanks!)

Now, let’s start not from the very beginning, but from Xichang, the capital city of Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. Liangshan literally translates “cool mountain”.

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After one night on the train, we arrived Xichang

at the break of dawn, there was Yi/Nuosu script

at the top of the train station, we knew we had

entered the Nuosu people’s area now.


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Remember him? The Nuosu hero Zhyge Alu trying to

shoot the sun, well in Xichang the sunshine is a bit

too strong…


img_33741No this isn’t dreamworks, it’s the statue of

Daughter of the Moon. Xichang is also known as

the Moon City. Hmmmm, I haven’t quite worked

out whether she’s Han or Nuosu?


Afterwards we had lunch under a tree right by Qionghai lake.

(hands belong to John our dear hard working guide)

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1, 2, 3, open! Watch out the jumping fresh

“drunken prawn”! Mouth watering yummy…

Don’t mind the spiders in the tree, cold

Snow Beer anyone?


img_3413Luoji Mountain, on the cable car ride up you feel like

going into fairyland, white clouds scudding around

you. This is Heilongtan, or Black Dragon Pond, this

scene has an end-of-the-world quality, I wonder

if one jumps from the red-roofed house into the

clouds, could he enter another world?


img_3412For some reason they looked like a good couple to me,

this was when high altitude sickness started to kick in.

Luoji Mt. is 4300m above sea-level, unfortunately my

limit is around 3500m, tried and tested. A pounding

headache seized me, my heart started to race, limbs

felt weak. I stopped photo taking. On the cable car

ride (45 min.) down Chippy got sick and this scared

the sh*t out of RS. I was in the another cable car with

John so I didn’t have to see that. John and I were also

exhausted we decided to save our breaths from talking.


img_3429The next day we went to Clay Forest in

Huanglianguan, where there was no-one but

the four of us: Chippy, RS, me and John, oh

and maybe, several fish that were jumping

out of the mud colored water,

which surprised us very much.

Under these columns I stopped and felt very

sick and vomited (remember: go back and

check the same spot to see if the bush is

taller and greener next year).

The Clay Forest looked like a deserted city

from ancient times, with a suggestion of

buried treasure somewhere underneath.

The path winding in it was demanding:

unpaved, narrow and steep, sometimes

very slippery.


img_3433This bridge looked quite Indiana Jones-ish to me.

Still no-one in sight but I heard singing, it turned

out to be our driver Yang, he was standing and

waving to us from the top of a hill. He was with

a girl, the girl had a tea-house up there.


img_3435So we went to the tea-house/inn. As I expected,

we were the only customers, the place was quiet,

clean and spacious. The house had a rustic style

to itself, inside of which was cool, it sheltered

us from the glaring sun. The girl and her father

were managing it, family business. Yang

chatted them up, turned out that they were

actually Hakka but moved here generations

ago. We had tea and hot water and rested.

I imagined it to be a tea-house in ancient

times where wayward swordsmen met

and exchanged glances and, information

about hidden dragon treatures.

TBC…